What I Learned about Popovers this Year

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REST THE BATTER

Resting your batter is the single most important step you can take to improving Yorkshire pudding and popovers. Not only do they come out taller, but they also come out much tastier, with a more complex, toasty flavor. Non-rested-batter puddings taste positively flat (literally and figuratively) next to rested-batter puddings.

USE WHOLE EGGS

The more yolks you add to your (Yorkshire) puddings, the more rich, tender, and custardy they become. The more whites you add, the taller and crisper they puff. Thankfully, I found that whole eggs gave the most desirable results. Still plenty tall but not so lean that they become dry.

DID NOT TRY, BUT RECOMMENDED

Puddings with more water in them rise up puffier and crisper. Unlike with excess egg yolks, however, the puddings stay tender enough that the tradeoff is worth it. If you have skim or low-fat milk—they work just fine on their own, no need to cut them with water. This is an excellent article with photo comparisons: https://www.seriouseats.com/2015/12/food-lab-yorkshire-pudding-popover-best-method-science.html.

RECIPE

This is the recipe I used. Next time I will only use 3 eggs. I did make batter the night before and rest in the fridge overnight. I might use 2% milk instead of whole milk.

450°F (230°C) is ideal. No convection. 

Ingredients

  • 4 large eggs (200g; 7 ounces) (Next time only will use 3)
  • 150g all-purpose flour (5.25 ounces; about 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons)
  • 175g whole milk (6 ounces; 3/4 cup) (see note)
  • 25g water (.85 ounces; 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons) (see note)
  • 2g kosher salt (about 1/2 teaspoon)
  • I added 1 TB melted butter + 2 tsp water
  • 100ml beef drippings, lard, shortening, or vegetable oil (about 1/2 cup) – Pudding (OR cut 3 TB cold butter into bottoms of the 12 mini popover pans or 2 TB in 6 popover pans

Jeanne

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